La Paz, Bolivia

Bolivia has been a priority for a couple years.

 

It is one of the most diverse countries on the planet representing multiple ecosystems including the high Andes, Amazon rainforests, deserts and forests. In 2023, I purchased a bus ticket from Arequipa, Peru to La Paz with the intention of staying for a month but ultimately backed away after discovering immigration required an expensive Visa, a Covid plus Yellow Fever vaccination to enter. Additionally, continual meddling by the United States including the 2019 Coup of Eva Morales has made travel to Bolivia a burden for the American passport holder. Fortunately, in 2025, restrictions for entry were reduced so it felt like the ideal time to visit.

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La Paz is a fascinating city sitting 12,000 feet above sea level inside a steep canyon with a reputation of experiencing the extremes of all four seasons within a single day. By all measures, it should not exist. Thankfully, it does.

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This is the world´s highest capital city. It´s located on the west central edge of Bolivia near the famous Lake Titicaca which embraces a handful of ancient cultural sites specific to the Inca Empire. Aesthetically, its all about the majestic presence of Mount IIllimani to the southeast and texture of its hillsides created by thousands of rectangular red brick dwellings cascading down the valley slopes. In the late afternoon, the entire composition turns to a hue of soft rose as light fades to dark during the close of each day.

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At this elevation, breathing is a bit of a challenge, especially with the city´s radical topography. You get used to it over time but acclimation comes with lot of deep breaths and multiple pauses while negotiating the matrix of stairways and steep paths that define La Paz at its core. Fortunately, you can find relief in a highly efficient tram system connecting nieghborhoods throughout the valley-south to north, east to west. This popular mode of transportation was implemented during the first decade of the 21rst century in an effort to combat growing traffic congestion along the narrow canyon floor and daily migration of people from El Alto on top of the plateau. Mi Teleférico, or My Cable Car runs like a clock, is clean, cheap and easy to navigate. I used it often, especially when visiting areas thousands of feet above my place of residence.

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Finally, it would be neglectful to pass on the subject of food in Bolivia. Typically, you hear a lot about the cuisine of each country prior to entry and build expectations accordingly. Not so here. However, that all changed during the first day of my arrival while enjoying a Salteña-a slightly sweet, savory pastry filled with a juicy filling of your choice. Further exploration revealed fresh, well prepared and Amazonian exotic foods at all levels including the streets, traditonal restaurants and fine dining experiences which I was able to enjoy due to an extremely favorable exchange rate.

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From my perspective, Ecuador, Peru, Columbia and now Bolivia represent the sweet spot of South America. In this region, you can find jungles, mountains, volcanos and some of the driest landscapes on the planet. It´s also rich in native culture reflecting values that are distinctly different from typical western norms. There is a spirit here-it´s hard to describe. It is omni present and representational of life at a slower pace. Its rooted in tradition, focused on sustainability over growth and subservient to the habitat of which it views sacred. It´s very attractive and in my opinion, a model the world should consider as its future.